Quiet Luxury: The Latest Aesthetic to Take Over Designer Fashion
NEWSLETTER
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By Kristen Nichols
last updated
in Features
In 2022, the buzz phrase that permeated the fashion space was " dopamine dressing," named for its mood-boosting effect that included a palette of bright colors such as Valentino Pink PP, nostalgic Y2K pieces from the early aughts, and an overall attitude of joyful dressing. Moving into 2023, brands are returning to simplicity and restraint through " quiet luxury" designs—elevated everyday essentials and pared-back pieces that evoke a sense of understated polish.The S/S 23 collections from designers such as The Row, Ferragamo, and Bottega Veneta embody this mood with pieces like logoless bags, sophisticated outerwear, and sleek crocodile-embossed footwear that feel simultaneously subtle and elegant.
Though framed as luxury, this movement doesn't necessarily correspond to high designer price points. Rather, this direction in fashion reflects the shift we're seeing in shopping habits that are more considered, with quality over quantity and long-term investment purchases top of mind. This can mean anything from finding an affordable vintage piece with a high level of craftsmanship to making a smart investment in a designer bag with a low cost per wear—all with discreet designs that are less recognizable than the logomania items of years past. Ahead, see how quiet luxury is impacting the runways and wardrobes of the fashion set and the key buys of the season.
Elegant Textiles
Understated elegance is a common thread we're seeing play out in the spring/summer 2023 collections. It was executed on the runways at Khaite and Prada with luxe textiles, such as satin, that lend a sense of easy sophistication to looks.
Major logo-heavy It bags have been losing steam on the runways. Instead, we're seeing logoless bags that are more low-key. Even though they don't have any brand logos, many are finished with signature hardware and finishes that made them the ultimate "if you know, you know" pieces. A style to watch this season is the Bottega Veneta Pipe bag—a just-released piece from Matthieu Blazy that is free of logos but designed with the house's Intreccio weave, making it recognizable to those in the know.
Bottega Veneta
Pipe Small Padded Intrecciato Leather Shoulder Bag
Dressing in neutrals is hardly new news, but what is interesting is how they are being styled. In Maximilian Davis's debut collection for Ferragamo, we saw head-to-toe beige looks with soft tailoring and elegant draping. These styling cues are also being replicated among the street style set.
The Row has mastered quiet luxury with its expert craftsmanship at every level—even in basics ranging from T-shirts to flip-flops. What sets the brand apart is the attention to fabrics, fit, and design details that take the pieces to the next level. These elevated basics are set to be the foundational pieces to invest in for spring.
We're seeing a movement toward maxi hemlines across the board for spring, and there is a subset of pieces that fall into the category of quiet luxury. Among them are tailored skirts, tailored coats, and long-sleeve dresses that all reach the floor.
Skims
Smooth Lounge Off-the-Shoulder Stretch Modal-Blend Maxi Dress in Onyx
Kristen Nichols is the Associate Director, Special Projects at Who What Wear with over a decade of experience in fashion, editorial, and publishing. She oversees luxury content and wedding features, and covers fashion within the luxury market, runway reporting, shopping features, trends, and interviews with leading industry experts. She also contributes to podcast recordings, social media, and branded content initiatives. Kristen has worked with brands including Prada, Chanel, MyTheresa, and Luisa Via Roma, and rising designers such as Refine and Tove, and her style has been featured in publications including Vogue.com, Vogue France, WWD, and the CFDA. Before Who What Wear, Kristen began her career at Rodarte, where she worked on assistant styling, photo shoots, and runway shows, and at Allure, where she moved into print and digital editorial. She graduated from the University of Southern California, where she studied art history and business, and currently lives in New York.
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